Farewell Ontario

Made cheese. Found clients. Sold cheese. So short-lived it wasn’t funny. Sorry to get hopes up, Ontario. I know the future did look awfully bright.

NS will be home to Red Door’s permanent home. It will take time to build a dairy, but it will be done. Sheep? Goats? Where? With whom? These questions will be answered in good time. Think life has a few good things lined up already.

The I-can’t-name-for-legal-reasons dairy’s sweet hospitality for my brief stint there was unrivalled…hope I can replicate it down the road.

Red Door is excited for the next chapter. Don’t worry authorities, I’ll contact you first.

xo,

Kate

cheese is really just a distillation of love: the Dutton
cheese is really just a distillation of love: the Dutton
guilty as charged: cat adoption
guilty as charged: cat adoption

.

Cheese. Again.

Good things are happening. Hard work pays off, people keep telling me. And now I believe them.

Mid-February happened to give me an opportunity to work with an established Ontario dairy to get my processing up and running…nothing’s set in stone yet so I don’t want to risk mentioning names, but it looks like I could be in production as early as late June. Too good to be true maybe? Just waiting for the shit to hit the fan…and reading some Zen texts (Pema Chodron and Thich Nhat Hanh).

Work is play with purpose, I say. Had to change my perspective as I was feeling overwhelmed. That does not mean I am not putting in the hours, but now able to spend more time focused and less time frazzled.

And yes, working on CFIA requirements today, assisted by pillows, coffee and my new favourite cabbage recipe. Oh, and if you make it, add garlic!

And I finally have a business name. Red Door Dairy. And yes, I will be on twitter *soon* with a logo and everything. This blog will be going on hiatus. Priorities! Life is one great balancing act. And good things still take time.

 

 

Cenno Storico

Piedmont (Italia!) for the last month, now back under the wing of Paul Georgelet in Poitou-Charentes. Highlights: Alpine milking parlours, Castelmagno, Peccorino Sardo, (the) + buffalo (that make the milk for the) + mozza, Slow Food’s Cheese in Bra, herding goats in Roccaverano, Nebbiolo, Barrolo, stracchino, 4 month old peccorino sardo, robiola di roccaverano (I daren’t mention tomatoes, as they deserve a whole blog of their own), amazing hosts, even more amazing family businesses + visions. Inspired!

I will be adding more photos very soon, as I have to collect them from others. Stay tuned.

Lactic sheep + Paris + Spain + solar  options + a (finally!) finished business plan await.

hugs!

aout-septembre

Just finished up a season on Ile de Re, and am now finally answering Italy’s calls. Yesterday Toulouse, today Marseille, tomorrow Milan (en route to a cheese festival), then to Castelmagno, then…stay posted.

My two months on the island can be condensed to the following formula: bike + cheese sales + market politics + fish + salt = a warm, constant rhythm.

Happiest moments: giving cheese and talking about cheese with children. Adults and their more refined tastes are also interesting, but there’s not the same light in their eyes when you give them one year old comte 

 

who stinks?

I am currently in Siruela, a little village about 300 km SW of Madrid. Historically, this area was known for livestock production and many living here still raise sheep (Merino and LaMancha), goats (Murciana is maybe the most widespread in this area but others breeds are common and there are lots of Saanen crosses) and cattle. When a citizen is born in this town, he or she receives a parcel of land from the town for farming, viable and fair land management, no?

So, to make a long story short, things weren’t working out at River’s Edge, but I’m so grateful for my five weeks there. Through various contacts, I found some opportunities in Spain, France and Italy and so, until the end of November, I am a nomad. The goals are many, but first and foremost to glean as much from the wealth and diversity of cheesemaking traditions in this part of the world as is humanly possible.

My Spanish degree is finally being put to use. Por fin, no? Although poor Spain! High unemployment and imposed austerity measures, cuts everywhere: the economic situation here is dismal. The cheese factory where I work is entering the market at a really challenging time, both with the crisis and an already saturated market. I recently learned that the Spanish government is helping people look for employment abroad. I’m here until the end of the month, and then headed to France.

Anyway, I’m going to try to tell this part of the story through pics only. Seriously, no more text. At least I will try.

Addenda:

Art! http://www.grizedale.org/projects/mobile-dairy-school

Recently watched The War of the Stinky Cheeses (La Guerre Des Fromages Qui Puent) What exactly is happening with French cheese? Just take a look at Lactalis’ growth to give you an idea. Will the pendulum swing back the other way? Only time will tell. Will the farmstead tradition in the US be taken over in a couple of decades by Kraft, producing not artisan singles of course, but mass-produced Harbison? hmm.

hugs,

Kate

beyond hubris

I am leaving the city tomorrow and likely won’t have much time for another of my lengthy posts for at least two months. I’m taking an online business planning course through Cornell’s Small Farms Program and am about to go into kidding season (cute baby goats are loads of work), so likely won’t have time to do anything other than survive.

Luckily, I recently had the good idea to get back into good stress management habits. Don’t quite know how I managed to lose those along the way. Yoga has been a part of my life for a long while now, but it was probably working for a yoga instructor (thanks Lisa!) that reminded me how key it is in keeping the balance. Yes, people do come into your life for a reason. And things happen for a reason. Case in point: the cheesemaking workshops I mentioned in the previous post were cancelled. It’s a long story (at the centre of which is regulation and the capacity for human error (my error in this case), but it was great to see so much interest, and glad to have avoided a possible legal battle for a license. I did let some people down in the process though, which was not so much fun. Finding my horse sense again.

I’ve been reflecting a lot these past couple months on a lot of things not related to cheese or goats, or business plans. Actually, one is related to cheese. Control. It is one of those words in the human experience that we don’t like to delve too deeply into, for fear of what is on the other side. Is it fear? Is it ego? Is it something else? Looking at the function and expression of control in my own life has shed light on a lot of things. But just how does this relate to cheesemaking? I know, it is maybe a bit of a stretch, but there are many things that you control/monitor/regulate when you make cheese: pH, TA, temperature, type and amount of starter and aging culture, not to mention feed considerations for the livestock producing the milk…the list goes on. So you could almost view it as a healthy way to exercise your inner control reflex. Or you could call me strange. Just indulge me.

It’s easy to get ahead of myself in this process. I have a lot of energy and enthusiasm and…idealism and naivete. I’ve recently found myself in the place between hubris (which was definitely one of the factors in getting me this far) and that rich, bright place of rebuilding that comes after. Lots to digest after these months in Toronto. Cautiously excited about the next steps. And being back in goat company.

I know, I know. You wish I would just write more about cheese, and cut the introspective meanderings. Here you go. Rush Creek Reserve from Uplands Cheese (WI) recently stole my heart/palate. It’s made from fall unpasteurized evening milk in the Vacherin-style (eatwithaspoon-style), wrapped in spruce bark. Woodsy, meaty, velvety complexity. Yum. Uplands only makes two cheeses: the aforementioned Rush Creek, and a firm, Alpine style Pleasant Ridge, and they do a damn fine job.

My February trip to Ann Arbor, rife with sampling, was a good reminder that I am still on the steps of the church of cheese, but the doors are open. I went with one of my classmates at VIAC, Tanya, who is well on her way to starting her own production. We went down to visit Aubrey, another classmate, co-owner of Zingerman’s Creamery, part of the Zingerman’s community of businesses. Aubrey shared some great cost-cutting ideas, not to mention a whole wealth of other info. She’s a gem. We also had the opportunity to visit Cornman Farms, which is adding a goat dairy, and the Detroit farmers’ market. Photos below are courtesy of Tanya. She has her own blog about adventures in cheesemaking, which you care read here.

A big thanks to Afrim (at Cheese Boutique) and Shep (at Gunn’s Hill) for sharing their business and other insights with me this week! Truly appreciated.

I got my first update to my advisory board out yesterday. Their input is really valuable at this stage in the project, but I also know I’ve asked a group of already terribly busy people. We’ll see.

I’m also working on a profile for a business partner. Universe, are you listening again? Paulo Coelho quotes are my daily bread these days.

Addenda:

Currently reading a neat article about creative competencies for leadership in navigating complex challenges, or rather what to do when you are facing a seemingly unsolvable problem. Visioning is one of the competencies mentioned, but read the article yourself and you might find something useful. Visioning comes in handy first thing in the morning, when you’re mapping out your day, or whenever you’re feeling a little fuzzy about your direction. Or overwhelmed. Or insert a different scenario here. It might even be one of those seven elusive habits of highly effective people, although I’ve yet to read the book.

I recently watched Le Quattro Volte (dir.: Michelangelo Frammartino). It’s a dreamy narrative of the life of an elderly goatherd in Calabria, Italy. This is a cinematic genre I have not spent any time with, where the viewer is left to simply observe tradition, but I will definitely be looking into what else can be found. It’s a beautiful, slow meditation on life. You really should watch it here.

Ok. Once I surface from kidding and business planning, you may hear from me once again.

xoxo

Kate

me + goats

new barn at cornman

Tunis lamb and momma

who needs a hydraulic press? old tech is good tech...especially if you got the skills to fix it yourself

Home, and other places

“I will also have a business plan in place before the end of February.” Oh, I will, will I? I’ll have most of one done, hopefully. Some of the sticky bits (finances mainly) will be coming together as soon as possible, likely summer or earlier. It’s a process that is asking for more details than I have right now, but by starting, it’s helping me identify questions I need to be asking now, like what is my first year of production going to look like and who should I be talking to now to see if it’s feasible? What is the actual price tag of this project and what sources can I potentially turn to for funding?

Stickiness. Sticky toffee pudding. Sticky toffee cheese (sorry for the cheesy transition…I couldn’t help myself). But no, I didn’t try it. This was at Chasing the Cheese, in Peterborough, where owner Julie Austin has curated a really lovely selection. I was in Peterborough for a meeting with Roger Harley, who raises pigs, sheep, cattle and veal calves on pasture and sells through Rowe Farms. He has some ideas shaping up about a more transparent alternative…it’s probably not in my realm to write about, but as the person behind animal welfare protocols for the company, it will be interesting to see what changes…a great resource to connect with. He may also play a role in helping me find those hundred acres my paper goats need. In case you just started reading, these goats are the ones that feature in the aforementioned business plan. It’s a long road ahead. I’ve got some amazing support though; thanks to all you wonderful people who keep telling me things are going well. I feel it too.

The word of the year is streamlining. Previous posts reveal that sometimes my interests run counter to getting these paper goats a home, but I’m working with the reality that I have the capacity to burn out and that just can’t happen. One question that came to mind at the start of my work on the business plan was long term economic planning, and why it’s not included in the traditional business plan model. Or is it? What’s beyond quarterly returns and how can the values of long-term planning be reflected?

I recently got confirmation re: interning at River’s Edge, so I’ll be in Arthur, ON as of March 1st. Why was this so important? Why didn’t I just go to Quebec, or France or work with an established cheesemaker in Ontario you ask? Regulations differ from province to province, and River’s Edge is the only small-scale farmstead goat dairy in the province. Crosswind, people say, is expanding…I think they have 350 goats now? But that does raise the question, what is small-scale exactly? That’s another post, one I plan to write soon. Feeding and health management, and their direct relationship with milk quality requires knowing the nannies (and billies). Farmers Katie and Will were a little reluctant, but I’ve convinced them to take me on for at least two months. Luckily I’m darn persistent.

Oh, and I’m an auntie! Ben is precious and I love him to bits. He’ll get this lovely book in a couple of years to remind him of his auntie with the goats, and I’m excited for him (and little brother/sister) to come and galavant around the farm when he’s bigger (and there’s actually a farm, and goats). Just left little Ben and the rest of the family in Halifax the day before yesterday, and it strangely felt like coming home, even though I had just left home.

I also had a chance to visit Holmstead in Aylesford, NS, which according to co-ower/operator Susan Tziolas, started with her and her husband making feta oldschool: heating milk from neighbouring farms over a fire in the driveway and carting the 1 kg blocks around to area businesses. Now they ship pallets of their feta to Toronto and Montreal weekly. Just a ways up from Holmstead is Ran-Cher Acres, owned by Randy and Cheryl Hiltz. Back when I was living in Halifax, I would make a weekly pilgrimage to the farmers’ market and get my milk and other treats from them. We had a friendly chat about Ontario and NS cheese over steaming cups of tea to warm our frozen hands. Lyndell (a classmate of mine at VIAC, who has her own project coming together in NS) drove (thanks Lyndell!), and we talked cheese most of the way. Days of cheese talk are inspiring, and I’ve got a whole weekend of cheese talk coming up, with a trip to Ann Arbor just around the corner to visit Aubrey at Zingerman’s Creamery.

But life is so much more than gustatory indulgence, as we know. I just got back from a talk by Gustavo Esteva, a leading Mexican activist, intellectual and founder of Universidad De La Tierra, among many other organizations. He spoke of many things deserving our focus; the cultural, agricultural, and political connections to GM corn, and its devastating supplanting of landraces of maize, and the history of how neoliberal globalization began (food was central). He reminded the room that Via Campesina has an estimated membership of 400-800 million: internationally 70% of the food we eat is produced by us, but 80% of food trade is controlled by corporations.

“The solution is not upstairs” is the note he ended on, mentioning governments are learning to ignore the people, but friendship and community are powerful tools of change. You can read a long interview with him here. This penultimate thought was sort of echoed at a panel I recently attended in Halifax, titled “Is Local Enough?” (nope, not quite). The imbalance of power that exists between Monsanto, Cargill et al and local food producers was discussed, relying on consumerism to change the status quo was picked apart, community driven municipal budgeting was mentioned, and panelists talked about their own journey to agricultural activism. Just Us (Wolfville) is now home to the Centre for Small Farms, there’s an urban farm (Common Roots) site in the works at the old QEH site, ACORN’s Grow A Farmer Program is up and running…exciting things on the east coast!

Ok. The Guelph Organic Conference is coming up this weekend, and I have some prep to do. I thought it would be a good thing to have a bit of community around the small-scale dairy, so I organized a panel discussion on the topic. Some fine folks agreed to add their voices: Ruth Klahsen (Monforte Dairy), Patrick Groenewegen (Limestone Organic Creamery), and Phillip Wilman (OMAFRA). We’ll have a discussion around the obstacles and benefits, with plenty of time for Q and A. It’s aimed at people wanting to start-up, but I’ve invited a few cheese shop owners and others who might want to have a say.  Anything to encourage more small producers! More details here. If you are in Guelph this Saturday, come! rsvp and I’ll save you a seat.

This post is too long. I guess it speaks to the fact that I feel like I have more time on my hands than I actually do. I recently came to terms with not starting a sewing project that has been on the back burner for months. Priorities, priorities.

Be well!

xx,

Kate

Back in Hogtown

So I am back in Toronto. My reluctant rural-urban migration aside, I am now gainfully employed, and of course ridiculously busy. I recently started work on a farm plan, a document which lays out the environmental, community, and educational objectives for the farm. The first draft will be done by the end of December, but it will remain a working document as the project comes together. I also aim to have a business plan in place before the end of February, but we’ll see how far I get. One more crucial piece in all of this is the assembly of an advisory board, which is also a work in progress. If you are a board member and reading this, don’t despair! I will have a policy proposal in place soon, which I’m expecting will be augmented by your contributions.

I’ve also been emailing and calling a number of folks recently to look into Peterborough’s potential as a primary market. Fifth Town is no longer in production (but what the future holds remains to be seen) and demand for local artisan goat cheese is on the rise, so it looks like there is some room in the market for another producer. Timing is, as always, pretty critical, as I’m not ahead of the game in considering Ptbo, gateway to cottage country. Julie Austin, owner of Chasing the Cheese told me recently that other people have been inquiring. Also, there is potential for a commuter line to connect Toronto and Peterborough, and if that’s the case, land prices will go up astronomically.

In other news…

Early November I went on a tour organized by Farm Start at Landman Gardens, where Eric Landman and his family milk about 160 Saanens and American Alpines in addition to running a market garden, CSA, pastured livestock and a bakery. The younger family members had a leading role in managing and directing the farm’s operations, and their love of the work was obvious. The goats are on pasture, then second cut, pellets and concentrate in the winter months. They sell the milk to Hewitt’s. I got some insight into breeding practices, fencing, and pasture management.

At the end of November, I went on a tour organized by Farms At Work (a fledgling organization “promoting healthy and active farmlands in East Central Ontario”) to Kingsholm Farms, run by Kevin King, a former dealer for Homestead Organics. Stress free pigs and alternative pig feeds, pasture management and resources, pastured cattle,  coyote management (the key is entrails!), and medicinal plants. I was hoping to get an idea about stocking rates for pigs, but things (at least in relation to pigs) are done more by observation than numbers and record keeping there.

The microbiome is a welcome area of research, not just for obesity, but also better understanding the role microbes from fermented foods play in our health. Just so you have some perspective, there are 774 bacteria living in our gastrointestinal tract, including 21 strains of Escherichia (E.) coli. This is a relatively new area of research, but it is being looked at by myriad organizations, from an international consortium to the Crohn’s and Colitis Foundation. What I’m interested in is how it relates to the use of raw milk in cheese production. As we better understand the role that indigenous flora play in our own gut, we can better understand how the introduction of indigenous flora of another species interacts with our own. Some of us already know about the vital role that raw fermented foods play in our diet, thanks in part to Sandor Katz and others have done, but I don’t know how much has been done with dairy. If you have seen studies of interest, send them my way! Maybe I’m thinking a little bit ahead of the game. Canada doesn’t even have its own cheese microbiologist.

Stanford is currently doing a study about raw milk and lactose intolerance. The objective of the study is to “determine if lactose maldigestion and symptoms of lactose intolerance are lower when consuming Raw milk vs. conventional pasteurized milk”. I don’t know how widely the results will be publicized, if at all, but I will keep an eye on it and post a link here. Why should I care about these things? Data data data. I am a strong believer in my body’s own nutritional wisdom, but society runs on facts and numbers, and I’m a reluctant participant.

In addition to the microbiome, I’ve got a number of research items over the next couple months, parasites being high on the list, along with potential funding sources, herd behaviour, and as always, fromage. Parasites are many. One is meningeal worm (also called brain worm, or Parelaphostrongylus Tenius). This is transmitted from white-tailed deer to goats through snails, which goats pick up while browsing. I saw its effects when I visited Does’ Leap in VT. The goat’s keeper, Kristan, said the doe’s production hadn’t dropped but mobility was an issue, as it affects the spinal cord and causes neurological problems that can be fatal. Rotationally browsing goats with geese to reduce parasite load on pasture (I recently finished Living With Worms in Organic Sheep Production by P. Stockdale (COG) where they suggested multi-species grazing) is an option, but what about when the goats are in dense bush or young growth forest?

Stratford, ON is now not only home to the glorious Monforte Dairy, but now The Local Food Community Centre, another community food hub victory for Canada! Check out Community Food Centres Canada for more info. The Local summed up a CFC much better than I could, so here’s their description:

“A Community Food Centre is a welcoming space where people come together to grow, cook, share and advocate for good food. CFCs provide emergency access to high-quality food in a dignified setting that doesn’t compromise their self-worth. People learn cooking and gardening skills there, and kids get their hands dirty in the garden and kitchen in ways that expand their tastebuds and help them to make healthier food choices. Community members find their voices on the issues that matter to them, and people find friends and support. CFCs offer multifaceted, integrated and responsive programming in a shared space where food builds health, hope, skills and community.

CFCs go beyond traditional charitable giving approaches, which answer an immediate need but often do nothing to address underlying issues of chronic hunger, poverty and poor health. They do that by offering multifaceted, integrated and responsive programming in a shared space where people can grow, cook, share and advocate for good food.”

Hot yoga is keeping me alive right now, as is my library card. I am not a city mouse. Next on the reading list is M. F. K. Fisher’s How to Cook a Wolf. I recently finished Jennifer McLagan’s Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal, and although I’m subsisting mainly on lentils these days, I did make a lovely velvety broth with pig bones recently.

Oh, and I still have tea for sale, but it’s running out quickly.

Stay tuned for 2013 plans, which are now up in the air. France and Vermont may battle it out after all for a year of my love (by love I mean interning).

be well!

xx

fibershed

I was lucky enough to have a third week of classes recently at the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese. I won’t take the time to summarize the immense amount of information I got in these three weeks total, as it was indeed a lot and unless you already make cheese, you might just get lost in the chemistry. I am going over my notes at present, making sure not one ounce of cheese knowledge squeaks away from me. It was incredibly empowering and I’m already ridiculously excited about the many next steps. I am definitely that person on the subway (yes, soon to move back to Toronto until March) who is smiling at the wall. Definitely looking forward to putting all this theory into practice next year interning, which I feel will be quite a decisive year in terms of next steps.

It was a full class. Very full. We were led into the dark but with candles in hand by Ivan Larcher (a consultant/teacher from Limousin, he has advised all over everywhere and other places too), who I would love to see in conversation with a dairy inspector from Canada or the US. Traditions differ so. Or maybe what we have here is not tradition so much as the misnomer of “progress”, industry getting bigger, simplifying/streamlining the manufacturing processes, all the while reducing the variety and complexity of cheese. Myself and seventeen other students delved into the soft cheese family, as well as starter cultures and coagulants. From the native bacteria present in milk (and the concept of “lively milk”), insights into best practices for curd cutting/handling, the necessity of tracking pH/titratable acidity (TA) development over time, some specifics of working with sheep and goat milk in soft cheese makes, as well the danger of following recipes and mountains of information more. It was formative.

Several students brought their own cheeses in for evaluation, and it turned out many of them were using exactly the same starter cultures. So just why is this? The culture market is dominated by only a handful of companies, surprise surprise. DuPont bought Danisco last year for a tidy 5.8 billion; isn’t corporate takeover in itself motivation enough for making one’s own starters? Not only that, but homemade starters capture the complex essence of the land and animals, the sense of place. Research in France right now is looking at exactly what environmental factors go into creating the best milk possible, down to details like how much straw for the animals’ housing. It is easy to see what side of the education-regulation spectrum France is on, too bad we are on the other side. If Canada does cut the 60 day aging rule, which is currently being considered by Health Canada, but does nothing to support processors (funding, education, and on-site support, such as testing and other services), this is like giving a child a drivers’ license without adequate instruction. Accidents will happen. It will just take a few processors without adequate support/knowledge to sully it for others. At least that is my fear. We will see.

I do love Burlington. I was hosted by some fine folks once again, being adopted by Jacob (of Measure Twice) and his wife Liz for my last few nights in the city. Thanks again lovely people! I might try to get back in a year or so. Yestermorrow has a fine selection of courses (specifically I would love to learn about solar barns and tree houses), but often I look at all the things I want to do and realize how many other people I want to have contribute to this project. I am after all just one small Kate, albeit mighty and capable of a great deal of mighty things (if this sounds to you at all like one of my many mantras, you might just be close). It’s all possible, especially in fiction (and design fiction):

Alice laughed. “There’s no use trying,” she said: “one can’t believe impossible things.”                                                                                      “I daresay you haven’t had much practice,” said the Queen. “When I was your age,                                                                                             I always did it for half-an-hour a day. Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible                                                                              things before breakfast.”

(Through the Looking Glass, Chapter 5).

Addenda:

There’s a project in Saskatchewan trying out multi-species grazing at Wolverine Community Pasture. But what, you ask, is the fate of community pastures under the conservative cuts to everything that is of any social/environmental value? Read all about it here.

It’s Sunday afternoon, and I actually managed to stay in bed for a good portion of the morning with a cup of coffee, half completed socks knitted with hand spun Merino for baby Olivia, and the Sunday Edition, which just aired a story on the wind farm in Kincardine. This fall has been awfully busy, and the window for cozy fall camping is getting narrower and narrower…

The merino that I’m knitting with was given to me in Spain, and was locally harvested and spun, part of the local fibreshed. I was recently introduced to this concept, and it looks like there’s a number of folks hard at work on Salt Spring and in California…fibre goats anyone? I know I won’t have time for harvesting and spinning fibre, but along with all the books I intend to write over the years, there will definitely be some time for more crafting by Kate.

Oh! And I now have tea available! Check the tea page, just maybe not today. I’m going for a walk in the back fields.

And I really have no camera now. So sorry for the lack of pictures. You are welcome to give me feedback on my writing so I can at least improve that.